MICROSILK™ | Protein-based biodegradable vegan silk

Spiderweb

Microsilk™ is a silk-like biosynthetic fiber made by the US-based company Bolt Threads. Microsilk™ is created by fermenting water, yeast, and sugar with spider DNA. It’s a fabric that’s been called “stronger than steel and more tear-resistant than Kevlar.”

Bolt Threads started by researching spider silk proteins to see what gives them their amazing features, such as high tensile strength, elasticity, durability, and softness. They then built technology to duplicate the process on a vast scale indefinitely.

How It’s Made

Synthetic spider silk is made using a few simple components and a lot of research. Sugar, water, and spider DNA-infused yeast cells are mixed together and fermented in big stainless-steel tanks. After centrifugation, the mixture is refined into a powder and combined with a solvent. The resulting liquid silk protein, which resembles glue, is identical to the liquid protein that spiders extrude from their silk glands and eventually form into fiber in their natural state.

MICROSILK™

The liquid silk protein is then extracted using spinnerets and spun into fibers in the same way that acrylic and rayon fibers are produced.

In the process, no spiders are employed at all. Bolt Threads began by studying real spider silk in order to better understand the relationship between the spiders’ DNA and the properties of the fibers they produce. They can now produce such proteins without utilizing spiders thanks to modern technologies.

MICROSILK™

GMOs (genetically modified organisms) are not present in Microsilk® fibers. Genetically engineered yeast is used in the manufacturing process. The silk protein is removed from the yeast when fermentation is complete, and the remaining yeast cells are killed by heat. There are no GMOs in the finished product. As they point out, this is the same technique that has been used to safely create cheese, insulin, and a variety of vaccines for decades. Bolt Threads gets its sugar from genetically modified corn during the fermenting phase. Because of the abundant supply, all big fermentation factories in the United States already use sugar from GMO corn.

Because of the abundant supply, all big fermentation factories in the United States already use sugar from GMO corn. Large-scale fermentation of non-food crops known as cellulosic feedstock is expected to be achievable in the future. Bolt Threads declares its commitment to participating in the development of solutions that will allow that future to become a reality.

Features of Microsilk™

Sugar from plants that are grown, harvested and replanted is the key input in the fiber-making process, and it is considered a renewable resource.

Few of the benefits of Microsilk™ include warmer than wool, lightweight, and much stronger than silk.

Applications

Microsilk™ is still in the research and development stage. They will conduct a life cycle analysis to evaluate the environmental consequences of their material, and they will be able to compare the results to dozens of other natural and synthetic materials using the industry-standard Higg Materials Sustainability Index.

Microsilk™ fibers have only been used in prototype fashion products so far, including a limited edition knit tie collection, a dress for the Museum of Modern Art created in collaboration with high-end fashion designer Stella McCartney, and a limited edition beanie collection made of Microsilk™ blended with Rambouillet wool.

MICROSILK™
MICROSILK™

Bolt Threads isn’t the only company that manufactures synthetic spider silk. Spiber, a Japanese startup, has teamed with The North Face and Goldwin, and its synthetic spider-silk material has already been used in proof-of-concept winter jackets.


REFERENCES:

  1. https://www.gearpatrol.com
  2. https://cfda.com/
  3. https://boltthreads.com

Spiber | Developing synthetic spider silk from Brewed Protein

Spiber
Moon Parka

In reality, most people are not ready to pay $230 for a T-shirt or $1,375 for a parka. But this reality changed when North Face Japan launched a limited collection of Moon parka jackets on the market in 2019, which quickly sold out.

The reason was they were made of lab-made spider silk.

Spider silk, which the animals use to form webs or cocoons, has a lot of unrivalled natural properties. However, because of the cannibalistic nature of spiders, it has been impossible to mass-produce spider silk in the same way as other animal by-products.

A Japanese biomaterials company- Spiber Inc. devised a solution for recreating the material’s molecules from scratch. They chose microbial fermentation as the way for producing spider silk proteins.

Spiber developed Brewed Protein, a fermentation-derived substance that offers the strength and elasticity of silk and the softness of cashmere wool when spun into a fibre. Brewed Protein also has a characteristic that ecologically aware customers will appreciate: it is manufactured from plant sources and is biodegradable in soil and water.

Spiber
Spiber

In essence, they make their own DNA based on the DNA responsible for spider silk production, incorporate it into microorganisms, and then feed them nutrients in enormous tanks so they can grow and generate the protein of interest. For the initial Moon Parka prototype, a scaled-up version of this procedure was used, with commercial manufacturing equipment used to shape the proteins into strands. 

Spiber started by analysing the genetic information that is responsible for protein creation in nature. Then they incorporated this DNA into a microorganism once they have constructed a strand of DNA that was believed to deliver the features required. From here, the procedure is fairly similar to the initial prototype, in which sugars and minerals are fed to the organisms so that they can develop and make the desired protein.

Spiber
Spiber’s production process can produce a range of different materials including yarn, fiber fluff and plastic films

After the fermentation is finished, they remove the needed protein from the microbes and dry it into a pellet or powder which they called ‘Brewed Protein™’. This can then be turned into a number of other materials. In the case of a fibre, the protein powder is dissolved in a dope solution, then extruded through a nozzle and solidified into a fibre.

Spiber

What is Brewed Protein™?

Brewed Protein™ refers to protein materials produced from plant-derived biomass using Spiber’s proprietary fermentation process. It can be processed into a number of forms, including fine filament fibres with a silky sheen and spun yarns with cashmere-like softness or the well-known thermal and moisture-wicking qualities of wool.

Brewed Proteins can also be processed into resins that closely resemble tortoiseshell or animal horn, thanks to Spiber’s in-house technology, which allows for the creation of compelling animal-free fur and leather alternatives. Brewed Proteins’ versatility makes them ideal for a variety of applications, from medical applications to lightweight composite materials.

Brewed Protein materials, in addition to their diversity, have a number of notable environmental advantages. Brewed Protein materials are projected to have a lower impact on marine ecosystems as compared to standard plastic materials since they are not reliant on petrochemicals as a key feedstock and do not generate or break down into ecologically persistent microplastics.

Furthermore, the unique microbial fermentation process employed in Brewed Protein manufacturing shows significant promise in terms of avoiding ethical and environmental concerns, such as the high greenhouse gas emissions connected with frequently used animal fibres.

Spiber has also set up in-house biodegradability testing and an environmental impact evaluation methodology, and are getting ready to release a life cycle assessment report once commercial manufacturing in Thailand gets underway.

Brewed Protein materials are an exciting new alternative for designers and artists aiming to build a better, more sustainable future because they combine ecologically responsible design—from the manufacturing process to the material itself—with near-endless adaptability.

Projects

Spiber successfully produced the world’s first Brewed Protein™ Moon Parka outdoor jacket in 2019 in partnership with The North Face. Again they partner to developed “The Sweater” made of Brewed Protein™, by blending it with wool.

This innovative material was also used in Japanese Couture designer- YUIMA NAKAZATO’s ‘Cosmos’ Couture Spring/Summer 2020 collection as well as Spring/Summer 2021. It was again used by YUIMA NAKAZATO in its ‘Atlas’ Couture Spring/Summer 2021 collection “EVOKE” at Haute Couture Week in Paris.

‘Atlas’ Couture Spring/Summer 2021
YUIMA NAKAZATO
“The Sweater” 
Goldwin x Spiber

REFERENCES:

  1. https://vegconomist.com
  2. https://www.dezeen.com/
  3. https://cen.acs.org/
  4. https://www.spiber.inc